Lastly, Dior males’s inventive director Kim Jones—who final week added Fendi womenswear to his design duties—took residence the award for Worldwide Menswear Designer of the Yr. His improvements in males’s couture and skill to translate subcultural obsessions for mass audiences have gained him rave critiques within the style world; over 5 million individuals tried to purchase his Air Dior sneaker.
Even outdoors of the awards for menswear designers, it was a male-dominated lineup of winners, with Christopher John Rodgers, the beloved younger designer whose robes merge Ralph Lauren cool with Cinderella fantasy, taking residence the award for rising designer, and Pierpaolo Piccioli scored Worldwide Womenswear Designer for his breathtaking work at Valentino. Gabriela Hearst gained the award for Womenswear Designer of the Yr, beating out The Row, Brandon Maxwell, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford. (Ford was additionally nominated for his menswear.)
As famous on Twitter, solely 16% of the winners this yr had been girls. Maybe the efforts to diversify the awards opened up a troublesome new spot—however extra doubtless, it displays a distinction between how the needs and desires of female and male style designers differ. The crowning of Hearst, whose work suggests a spiffier model of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, with an impressively luxurious emphasis on sustainability, means that maybe feminine designers, in the mean time, are extra excited by communing with the inside lifetime of their meant wearer. It’s males, now, who’re making the massive splashy gestures. That is particularly, fascinatingly true in female-driven areas like couture, hit purses, and staging probably the subsequent large revolution in garments by shaking the conservative uniform—the swimsuit!—out of its shell. Are males simply having extra enjoyable? The awards herald the start of New York Style Week, and the worldwide marathon of runway reveals after that. Possibly we’ll get some solutions.