For many who Hold Up with the Kim Joneses, Wednesday morning was a mini-roller coaster journey of style musical chairs, with the announcement that the Dior males’s inventive director would take over as inventive director of womenswear, high fashion, and fur at Fendi.
However he’s not leaving his publish at Dior Males—moderately, he’ll work throughout the 2 manufacturers, each of that are beneath the LVMH umbrella.
Jones’s appointment was met with nice pleasure inside the style group, which has been craving Jones’s mixture of subculture and luxurious—heretofore solely out there within the males’s division—in a womenswear providing for years. Insiders have been additionally fast to notice that Jones is taking on for the late Karl Lagerfeld, who designed Fendi’s womenswear from 1965 till his demise, and that Jones’s association loosely parallels Lagerfeld’s personal shuttling between Fendi and his duties as inventive director of Chanel. However it doesn’t essentially imply that Jones is teed up as Lagerfeld’s inheritor obvious at Chanel—that model is independently owned by the Wertheimer household, in spite of everything, and longtime Lagerfeld affiliate Virginie Viard appears safely ensconced there. A minimum of till Marc Jacobs or Phoebe Philo counsel they want one thing new to do.
Some have been skeptical in regards to the appointment of one other white male designer at a luxurious home within the midst of renewed requires variety inside style’s inventive ranks. In a panel dialogue hosted by the New York Occasions style director and critic Vanessa Friedman on Wednesday morning, Friedman requested Berluti CEO and LVMH communications head Antoine Arnault whether or not he’d thought-about a nonwhite candidate for the job. “To be sincere, with this explicit nomination, no,” Arnault mentioned. He added that such choices are sometimes made far upfront—certainly, rumors about Jones’s need to do ladies’s collections have flown across the business for years, together with voluminous buzz in 2018 that he would go away his then-post as males’s designer at Louis Vuitton to take over as head designer at Versace. Nonetheless, it could possibly’t have escaped the highest brass of LVMH that Jones has made a powerful displaying flexing all of the technical bravado of a couture home that Dior provides, together with his refined merging of streetwear and savoir faire arguably second to none. One imagines his fur choices for Fendi shall be wealthy delicacies.
Extra importantly, Jones arrives at Fendi with a buyer already within the wings. The designer has a longtime posse of high fashions, counting Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss as shut associates who’ve already worn his Dior menswear designs. His fluency with sneakers and underground streetwear make him a pure match for a home that has deftly ridden the logomania revival to new heights. Jones’s debut would be the fall 2021 present held in Milan subsequent February.