The Best Trends Of The ‘90s Are Brought Back To Life In Julie And The Phantoms


There’s little costume designer Soyon An wouldn’t do to realize the right look. For her most up-to-date challenge, Netflix musical collection Julie and the Phantoms, An, whose resume contains American Idol, Step Up All In, and So You Suppose You Can Dance, even picked up scissors quite a lot of occasions for some inventive tailoring — reducing ornamental parts out of trainers to position on a shirt, and turning a costume that didn’t match right into a jacket. “I really feel like this complete interview is popping right into a ‘Soyon deconstructing stuff,’” she tells me halfway by means of our discuss, laughing. However all of the detail-oriented work paid off: Julie and the Phantoms costumes not solely stand out, however they’re additionally stuffed with hidden meanings that transcend what you’d see in most costume work.

Madison Reyes performs Julie, a excessive schooler who loses her love for singing after her mom dies. Then, issues get bizarre: The ghosts of three younger musicians who died within the ‘90s (performed by Charlie Gillespie, Jeremy Shada, and Owen Joyner) seem in her mother’s outdated music studio. After which issues get weirder: The ghosts persuade Julie — the one dwelling one who can see them, no huge deal — to begin a band with them so that individuals can hear their music regardless of them being, properly, ghosts.

As you’ll be able to think about, all of this has a giant impact on Julie — and it’s mirrored in what she wears. As she goes from being unable to carry out in even a classroom setting to singing on the stage of the largest music venue round, her wardrobe evolves from a sweater that includes a smiley face, denims with sun-patches, and outsized slippers to crystal-adorned jackets and tulle skirts. “Julie is in mourning for her mom, so I wished to have the ability to inform a narrative by means of costume, the place, to start with, she is type of hiding beneath a hat and beneath the hood and sporting extra of an oversize match, after which ultimately she begins to stroll into her personal,” says An. “She is a sneakerhead, and she or he’s a little bit tomboyish. You may inform she doesn’t put a lot thought into her fashion, but it surely all the time appears to be like cool.”

An pulled a covetable number of sneakers, and even bid on a pair of limited-edition Air Drive 1s, to characteristic within the collection. “I wished to get her type of unique sneakers and actually stay as much as the character being a sneakerhead. So I went on StockX, and I bid on the cheetah-print sneakers,” she says. “As a result of they’re limited-edition and Madison had a body-double, we then needed to paint one other pair of Air Drive 1s to match the unique for her body-double.” She added particular touches to different pairs, too: “Her Filas, I {custom} painted these sneakers, so it regarded like one thing her character did herself. She is one to doodle on her pants and draw on her sneakers.”

For her clothes, An says that 50 p.c was custom-made, whereas the opposite 50 was pulled from manufacturers like Kate Spade, City Outfitters, Perpetually21, and I.Am.Gia and classic shops. For certainly one of her first performances with the band, Julie wears a camo jumpsuit, which An obtained in a classic retailer in Highland Park in Los Angeles, serving as a nod to Reyes’ mother: “We mentioned how fantastic it could be to pay homage to her mother, who’s serving our nation.” An then custom-made the jumpsuit with patches she discovered at an unlikely place: the UGG retailer in Vancouver, the place the collection was shot. “It was hilarious. On the show, that they had the patches on the UGG boots. For a break up second, I used to be going to purchase a pair [of boots] and minimize all of the patches off to make use of on the costume, after which [the salesperson] was like, ‘No, it’s important to purchase them individually and then decorate your boots,’” An says. “I used to be prepared to chop them out for the collection!”

This wasn’t the one scene for which An was keen to deconstruct some footwear. Throughout certainly one of Julie’s huge public performances, she wears a white shirt adorned with colourful butterflies. “I cherished the translucent butterflies on these clear plastic boots that I discovered on Dolls Kill, and I minimize the butterflies off the boots and put them on her high.” Butterflies, a standard theme with Julie’s clothes, are symbolic of her evolution as a musician. “A butterfly goes by means of a stage of metamorphosis, from caterpillar [to] cocoon to flying-free butterfly, and I feel her character represents that,” she says. “There she is as a caterpillar earlier than the collection even begins, then she is a cocoon as a result of her mom passes away, and, as soon as she meets the phantoms and she or he finds her voice and music once more, she is flying free.” Nowhere is that extra evident than in a scene wherein Julie performs sporting a crystal hat and sparkly pants that includes over 5,0000 Swarovski crystals (see high picture). “These crystals had been punched in, the grommets with the prongs. I feel the pants weighed greater than Madison,” says An. “She was like, ‘That is the heaviest pair of pants that I’ve ever seen in my life!’”

For an additional efficiency look, a turquoise costume with a fringe vest, An additionally utilized her {custom} contact. “That turquoise costume was hand-painted. I feel that costume was a black Armani Trade costume, and I painted over it to offer it that grunge, punk, rock and roll look.” As for the vest? I gained’t spoil it, but it surely exhibits up first in episode 1: “There’s like, an Easter egg that I hid in there.”

For the ultimate efficiency of the collection, Julie wears a custom-made purple costume with a beaded leather-based jacket, produced from a costume that An deconstructed and remodeled. “The unique concept was that she would have one thing fabulous from her mother’s closet, so I used to be taking a look at some classic shops. On TheRealReal, I discovered this Balmain costume,” she says. Whereas becoming Reyes, An realized that it was too huge. “I couldn’t let go of the costume. I cherished it a lot that I took the outer layer of the costume and I used it as cloth and I made it into that leather-based jacket,” she says. 

However Julie isn’t the one one with an enviable wardrobe. Her finest pal, Flynn (Jadah Marie), dons a number of the most memorable appears to be like of the season. “From the second I learn the script and will hear Flynn’s voice, I used to be like, ‘She is a fashionista, the cool child on campus,’” says An. This resulted in Fenty-like tie-dye shirts, leopard-print every part, and brightly coloured clothes and jumpsuits, in addition to can’t-miss equipment like a bulldog-shaped purse, heart-shaped glasses, glitter backpack, and earrings spelling “What.” “That’s her persona. It’s like, ‘What?’ Like, ‘I don’t care, it’s cool.’ I wished to embrace that language within the clothes,” says An.

In distinction to Flynn and Julie is their classmate Carrie (Savannah Might), the spoiled daughter of a former rockstar, who makes Julie’s life hell at school, all whereas sporting a tweed matching set and loafers with bows, a feather boa over a denim high and skirt (together with her boyfriend matching in a jean jacket, a la Britney and Justin on the 2001 American Music Awards, no much less), and a “Royalty” T-shirt. Because the chief of Soiled Candi, a lady group who feels threatened by Julie and the Phantoms’ new success, Carrie goes much more over-the-top together with her appears to be like with glitter shorts and excessive socks. Whereas Soiled Candi’s costumes, with every woman wearing a selected candy-colored high and sporting an identical wig, seem to attract from Okay-Pop, in response to An, her largest inspiration was the brilliant, iridescent hues of Jolly Ranchers. “One of many first appears to be like whenever you see the Soiled Candi women, they’re within the vinyl, translucent clear plastic jackets, and that proper there’s Jolly Ranchers,” she says. “I used to be like, ‘We now have to spell Candi with an “I” [on the back of the jackets] in order that the “I” generally is a lollypop. That’s their emblem!’”

On one other stage, viewers can see dancers that might rival the perfect of Jazz Age and Moulin Rouge on the Hollywood Ghost Membership, a speakeasy that sees ghosts and “lifers” mingling, owned by Caleb Covington (Cheyenne Jackson), a ghost-magician who could make ghosts seen to folks. Whereas luring Luke (Gillespie), Reggie (Shada), and Alex (Joyner) into the membership, Caleb wears a wealthy purple velvet swimsuit custom-made by British designer Joshua Kane. “[Director] Kenny [Ortega] was like, ‘Suppose: Houdini — he’s a magician. And consider Cary Grant, these outdated stunning film stars, black-and-white movies, and the way dapper and regal they had been,’” says An. So as to add to the wow issue, An and her workforce custom-made the coattails. “The look didn’t get there till 4 days earlier than we began capturing, so then we needed to match Cheyenne, do all of the alterations, then stick about 10,000 Swarovski crystals on that jacket till the morning of after we began capturing,” she says. After working out of the crystals that An introduced from L.A, she needed to supply extra from an area bead retailer. “They didn’t have all the colours, so then I needed to implement different colours and recreate the design of the Swarovski sample in order that it was symmetrical.” Whereas Caleb’s look is undoubtedly the centerpiece of the scene, which An calls some of the difficult of the collection, it’s arduous to not be mesmerized by the flicker of the remainder with musicians in flapper-like clothes, performers in cabaret-like costumes, and the waitstaff in pink coattails, all impressed by “Previous Hollywood — however with a twist.”

As for Luke, Reggie, and Alex, An wished them to exude ‘90s style whereas additionally interesting to the fashionable viewers who’re presently having fun with the resurgence of the period’s developments. “I wished to convey all of the timeless ‘90s items for the boys in order that, taking a look at it right now, you recognize that it’s ‘90s however nonetheless, it’s like, ‘That’s one thing I’d put on right now.’” She created a singular ‘90s search for every one, with Luke dressed because the “die-hard rockstar” with cutoff muscle shirts and the tight pants; Reggie, the “timeless rock and roll man” who wears flannel whereas concurrently channeling James Dean with the leather-based jacket, white T-shirt, and black denims; and Owen “convey[ing] in a few of that ‘90s avenue in a hoodie-cargo pant look with the cool ‘90s sneakers.” 

Certainly, the ‘90s staples of right now, like Champion hoodies, tie-dye shirts, and retro-esque Nike sneakers, are all on show, proving simply how cyclical style is — and the way a lot foresight An had whereas filming. “I prefer to suppose ahead,” she says. “I love to do, like, development forecasting and create style developments on initiatives that I’m engaged on that I foresee taking place.”

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