In late August, rumors started spinning by way of the voluble Supreme social media rumor mill that the streetwear powerhouse would quickly launch a set with the legendary Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. Now, after weeks of hypothesis, it’s confirmed: Yohji Yamamoto is Supreme’s newest collaborator.
“A grasp craftsman with a rebellious spirit, Yohji’s transformative affect is felt far past the runway,” an announcement on Supreme’s web site states, describing his “masterful draping and playful androgyny.” The gathering, which will probably be out there on Thursday, September 17 (and the 19th in Japan), is heavy on outerwear, with a leather-based jacket, work jacket, and parka, plus a sweater, two sweatshirts, a beanie, and an assortment of T-shirts. Maybe most fun, the grasp of experimental suiting will mix forces with Supreme’s personal cult tailoring choices for a wool swimsuit.
As reviews continued to crop up on-line, some high-fashion twitterati and armchair hypebeasts questioned why vogue’s best working avant-gardist is collaborating with the New York skate model. The identify Yohji Yamamoto stands for the last word antiestablishment angle—antifashion, even. However a deeper look exhibits that Yamamoto, or Yohji-san, as he’s lovingly referred to within the trade, is one thing of a soulmate for Supreme.
Yohji-san could be the antithesis of hype—a designer who emphasizes excessive individuality, recognized for clothes that beckon contemplation—however he’s a sort of godfather of the mischievous angle on the coronary heart of Supreme (although, in fact, Jebbia and group carry out theirs with a bit extra fake bravado than Yohji-san). The punkish Yohji-san, in spite of everything, is not any misty minimalist on the mountaintop; because the exhibition catalog for a 2006 landmark sequence of exhibitions on his work notes, “Extra is initially a lifestyle…. Extra can be a treatment for routine and tedium, a approach of confounding others’ expectations of oneself, of frightening astonishment by contravening but once more the ethical and bourgeois values that always make advantage, self-discipline and success right into a single high quality. For Yamamoto, dysfunction, indiscipline, and behavioural [sic] swings within the personal sphere appear to light up and enrich his public being…and his vogue.”
Certainly, Yohji-san’s philosophy has lengthy been in dialog with Supreme’s, by coincidence or in any other case. In 2007, he spiked his fall assortment with a handful of appears to be like parodying designers’ burgeoning obsession with logos and the trade’s more and more company ambiance, with a YY motif mocking Louis Vuitton’s Japonisme emblem print—about seven years after Supreme did the identical with their Vuitton bootleg skate decks. The designer’s Y-Three collaboration with Adidas, launched in 2002, was an unprecedented partnership between an athletic model and a luxurious dressmaker, and created the blueprint for the previous decade and a half of collaborations, particularly the legendary mergers of streetwear manufacturers with couturier-level designers that peaked with Kim Jones’s 2018 Vuitton assortment with Supreme.